Jastrzębia Turnia / Corona XI-

Corona XI- na Jastrzębiej Turni to na dzień dzisiejszy najtrudniejsza technicznie droga Tatr. Wytyczona w czerwcu 2016 roku, dwa miesiące później zostaje uklasyczniona przez Jozo Kristoffy. Poniżej wrzucam opis drogi (po angielsku) i parę fotek.

Wycena: XI-

Długość: 3 wyciągi

Czas przejścia: ?

Lokalizacja: Jastrzębia Turnia

Uroda: Sam oceń. Jeśli przeszedłeś to zaznacz ilość gwiazdek (Od 1 do 5), tak aby inni wiedzieli na co warto iść ;)

Wystawa: ?

Charakter: płyty/przewieszenie

Okres do wspinania: lato

Zagrożenia obiektywne: ?

Pierwsze przejście: 2016, 17- 18 czerwca - Jozo Kristoffy, Miso Bado, 8, A3+ (new wave aid rating)

Pierwsze przejście klasyczne (PP): 2016, 2 września - Jozo Kristoffy, 11- (8, 11-, 5), RS4, E3+ Jasper, mixtrad, obligatory 10-

Dojście

Patrz Jastrzębia Turnia

Opis

After the return of a successful expedition from Cochamo (Northern Patagonia, Chile), where Jozef and his climbing crew successfully lead El Condor Pasa 10, a 700m route, Jozef decided that that he will return to a Jastrabia veza in the High Tatras that he has been putting off for years.

On June 17/18th, 2016 Jozef Kristoffy and his partner Miso Bado made the first ascent with the crux pitch of an approximately 40m long and slightly overhanging, in the south face of the Jastrabia veza. At the time they set the grade at 8, A3+.

The first part of the climb is shared with Pochyleho Platna and Jet Stream. Jet Stream weirs of to the left after a few meters. After the second bolt Pochyleho Platna goes to the right and Corona goes left through an overhang and a corner equipped with its on gear. This length was climbed by OS who grated it an 8.

Then came the crux pitch, 38 meters high and 4 meters overhanging, after two chilly and windy days he used special quick draws, the smallest micro-friends and micro-nuts, skyhooks and even a few copperheads at the end.

During the summer Jozef visited Jastrabia veza several times while removing old protections after some technical climbing and got the route ready to be free climbed. For the entire length of the crux pitch he used 4 bolts and few nuts and cams for more protection and on he went. Jozef along with his trainer Peter Slivka decided that he would divide the season as follows. He would make the top of the season end of the summer when he would attempt the first assent of Corona as the conditions would be ideal.

The climb is found in the mountains therefore Jozef decided to respect its ethics and protect it as such. The person who will attempt the second assent will need to have knowledgeable in placing their own gear along with being physically and mentally strong. And have the ability to make hard moves well above their protection.

Corona was successfully climbed by Jozef on September 2/2016 in PP style with the hardest pitch graded at 11-, which is currently the hardest free climb in the Tatras.